Eustoma grandiflorum

Eustoma grandiflorum seeds yield elegant, medium-tall lisianthus with long-lasting, pollinator-friendly blooms, thriving in full sun with light shade in heat, well-drained, moderately fertile soil, suiting borders, cutting, and containers.
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Sowing and growing guidance

Eustoma grandiflorum seeds benefit from an early indoor start well before the last frost. Surface-sow onto a fine, well-drained, moderately fertile medium and keep evenly moist but never waterlogged; light aids germination and warmth helps them along. Grow seedlings bright and steady, then harden and transplant only after frost risk has passed; in mild-winter climates, autumn sowing or planting can provide cool-season growth. Position in full sun, offering light shade in heat. Space plants for good air flow and the medium-tall habit, following packet guidance. Water at the base and feed lightly; avoid crowding and cold, wet roots. Handle gently, as they dislike rough transplanting.

  • Start early indoors: surface-sow; seeds need light; 20–24°C for germination; keep evenly moist.
  • Transplant after all frost risk; full sun with light shade in heat; well-drained, moderately fertile soil; avoid waterlogging.
  • Allow generous spacing for airflow; medium-tall stems may need discreet support; follow packet spacing.
  • Suitable for containers; choose a deep, free-draining mix and maintain steady moisture.
  • Flowers may attract pollinating insects when in bloom.
  • Ornamental selection grown for refined, elegant blooms.

How do I grow Eustoma grandiflorum from seed?

Eustoma grandiflorum (lisianthus) is slow to mature from seed, so indoor sowing well before the last frost is typical. Use a fine, sterile seed-starting mix and surface-sow the tiny (often pelleted) seeds; they need light to germinate, so do not cover. Maintain gentle bottom heat around 20–22°C (68–72°F) with high humidity, plus bright light for 14–16 hours daily. Germination usually takes 10–20 days. After emergence, grow cooler (about 15–18°C/59–64°F) and bright to prevent stretching. Pot on carefully once true leaves form, and transplant outside only after frost risk has passed.

When should I start lisianthus indoors?

Start lisianthus indoors well ahead of the last frost, typically at least 10–12 weeks in advance, with many growers allowing 12–16 weeks because seedlings develop slowly. Transplant outdoors after the final frost when soil is workable and nights are consistently mild. In mild-winter climates, autumn sowing or planting can be successful for cool-season growth, avoiding peak summer heat. Always harden off seedlings for 7–10 days in incremental light and wind before setting them out.

What are reliable lisianthus germination tips?

Use fresh seed and a fine, sterile medium; surface-sow and gently press seeds in for seed-to-soil contact without covering. Provide bright light, steady warmth (about 20–22°C/68–72°F), and consistent moisture via misting or bottom-watering so the mix stays evenly damp, never sodden. A clear humidity dome helps early on; remove it gradually after germination to improve airflow and prevent damping-off. Avoid fertiliser until seedlings have true leaves, then feed very lightly. Keep seedlings cool-bright after they sprout to reduce stretch, and handle roots gently when pricking out.

What are the best soil and sun conditions for lisianthus?

Lisianthus prefers full sun in cooler or moderate conditions, with light afternoon shade in intense heat. Aim for 6–8 hours of direct light where possible. Soil should be well-drained and moderately fertile; avoid waterlogging at all stages. A quality mix with added perlite or grit improves drainage, and raised beds help in heavy soils. Keep moisture steady—neither droughty nor saturated—using mulch to moderate temperature and retain moisture. In hot climates, combine early-day sun with light afternoon shade and water in the morning at the base to limit heat stress.

How and when do I transplant Eustoma after the last frost?

Transplant after the final frost once seedlings are well-rooted and hardened off. Plant at the same depth as in pots, keeping the crown at soil level, and water in gently. Allow good air flow by spacing plants so foliage isn’t crowded; medium-tall types often benefit from support such as stakes or netting. A light pinch at the 6–8 leaf stage can encourage more branching, though some modern varieties branch without pinching and pinching may delay first blooms. Deadhead spent flowers to extend the flowering period and reduce self-seeding.

Can lisianthus be grown in containers?

Yes—choose deep, free-draining containers with ample drainage holes. Use a high-quality, well-drained potting mix (often with added perlite), and avoid oversize pots that hold excess water around young roots. For medium varieties, one plant in a 20–30 cm pot, or several in a larger container, works well. Water thoroughly but allow the top layer to dry slightly between waterings; containers in hot weather may need more frequent checks. Provide full sun with light afternoon shade in extreme heat, feed lightly with a balanced, low-salt fertiliser, and stake if stems are tall.

Growing information provided here is general and may need adjusting for your microclimate, soil type, and local conditions such as temperature, rainfall, and day length. Timing should be interpreted with climate cues (for example, after last frost or when soil is workable). For the most accurate directions—including spacing, depth, and germination notes—refer to the individual product page, which contains the specific instructions supplied for that variety.

Cultivation notes for lisianthus

Eustoma grandiflorum (lisianthus) rewards patience with elegant, long-lasting blooms. Because the species has a long growth cycle, many growers start indoors 10–12 weeks before the last frost; in mild climates, autumn sowing may be possible for early flowering the following season. The seeds are extremely fine and germinate best with light, so they are typically surface‑sown onto a fine, sterile medium and kept evenly moist by misting rather than heavy watering. A steady 20–22°C and bright, indirect light support uniform germination. Seedlings resent root disturbance; transplanting is easiest when raised in plugs and moved carefully once 2–3 true leaves have formed. After hardening off, plants establish well in free‑draining soil with consistent moisture and good airflow; neutral to slightly alkaline conditions suit them. Spacing of 20–30 cm helps reduce humidity around foliage. Tall stems may benefit from discreet support. Light, regular feeding encourages bud formation without producing overly lush, soft growth.

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